Signature Mesh Polo by Ralph Lauren

Signature Mesh Polo

1967 - Where it all beganRalph Lauren establishes the Polo label with an instantly successful line of ties. In direct opposition to the narrow ties and conventional styles of the time, Lauren designs wide, handmade ties using unexpected, flamboyant, opulent materials. The ties quickly begee a menswear status item. A tie was the way a man expressed himself. I believed that men were ready for something new and different. They didnt want to look as if they worked for IBM. A beautiful tie was an expression of quality, taste, style. Already interested in promoting a lifestyle with his ties, Ralph Lauren names his line after a sport that embodies a world of discreet elegance and classic style: Polo.
~Polo

We (Polo) do not own or operate any manufacturing facilities and therefore depend upon independent third parties for the manufacture of all our products. Our products are manufactured to our specifications by both domestic and international manufacturers. During fiscal 2003, approximately 5%, by dollar value, of our mens and womens products were manufactured in the United States and approximately 95%, by dollar value, of these products were manufactured in Hong Kong and other foreign countries.
We contract for the manufacture of our products and do not own or operate any production facilities of our own. Over 290 different manufacturers worldwide produce our apparel products. Polo grants its product licenses the right to manufacture and sell at wholesale specified categories of products under one or more of its trademarks. The gepany's licenses have 3 to 5 year terms and may grant the licenses conditional renewal options.
~ Edgaronline
(Some) Countries ofManufacture, Past and Present
Sri Lanka, Philippines, Hong Kong, Bolivia, Northern Mariana Islands, USA, Indonesia, India, Peru, China, Columbia, Mexico, Korea, El Salvador, Singapore, Jamaica, Mauritius and others.

Signature Mesh Polo
MensRN #41381 ~ Womens RN # 94306 ~ Boys RN #113338

1. MATERIAL: Ralph Lauren uses 100% pure COTTON. Pure cotton fades the very first time you wash it.
2. LOGO: Ralph Lauren logos are tightlyembroidered using strong, polished thread. The colors in the logo do not run. There should not be a space down the middle of the horse (between the horse's shoulder and rider's left leg). Inside out, you can see it is sewn onto a little piece of white mesh. The rider is looking to his right and holding the mallot in his right hand. You cannot see the fabric through the logo.3. STITCHING: Ralph Lauren uses the same color thread as the material. The length of the stitch is short, to give the appearance of "being less noticable". If you see stitching that is long and loose, be wary.
4. LABELS: All labels are made of two-toned spun NYLON.The collar label when turned inside out is all nylonthreads (stringy) running vertically; if there's no loosethreads,it's probably fake.If there is a paper-ish label in the side seam with ink printing, it's definately a fake.

MFG. COLLAR LABELThree (3) navy nylon labels -The Mfg. label is stitched on two sides. The size label is added on it's left side, and sewn on right-side up (RN # can be found on back). Under the Mfg. label is a third label with place of manufacture

Sookie Stackhouse Series Charlaine Harris READING ORDER

READING ORDER FOR THE SOOKIE STACKHOUSE SERIES
1.Dead Until Dark
2.Living Dead in Dallas
3.Club Dead
4.Dead To the World
5.Dead as a Doornail
6.Definitely Dead
7.All Together Dead
8.Dead to Worse
9.Dead and Gone

FIND ONLINE

September 2011 okay coupon code, paypal redemption code, half.ge coupons, okaybucks rewards, online shopping coupon promo code, free shipping codesTired of looking for okay coupon codes but want continuous 2- 5% off everything you buy?? There are several fabuloustop cashback and rebate sites for okay and online stores like Amazon, Apple, airline discounts, buy.ge, home depot, hotels.ge, lenovo, Macy's sony, Target, tigerdirect, toysRus, walmart etc etc. Each of these sites are affiliated with many stores and 5 - 6 are affiliated with okay cashback / rebates and coupons. =

Do NOT buy a Black Macbook new from Apple

Do NOT buy a Black Macbook new from Apple?

Determining your body type and clothes that flatter it!

Learn to embrace your body type by finding clothes that emphasize all its amazing features while downplaying the not so amazing ones. The first step to finding the right articles of clothings for you is to determine your body shape.
We have all the tips and tricks right here, that you will need to look your best!

PEAR*Large Hips and Thighs*Smaller upper body(For example your pants size may be 2 sizes larger than your shirt size) *Narrow shoulder and back*Defined WaistEX: Jennifer Lopez, Oprah, Kate Winslet, Kelly Clarkson

TIPS:*Wear darker colors on bottom to slim, and brighter colors on top to draw the eye upwards!*Blouses with puffy sleeves and ruffles will add bulk to your upper half and help to balance you out.*Low necklines work great! They will draw the eye up to emphasize your bust.*A-line/Flared skirts look amazing on pear shapes!*Empire and Babydoll dresses also work great and will flow over the hips instead of hugging them.----------------------------

APPLE*Larger upper body when gepared to lower.*Fuller bust, wider shoulders*Fuller, less-defined waist, not necessarily overweight.*Narrow hipsEX: Catherine Zeta-Jones, Elizabeth Hurley, Drew Barrymore,

TIPS:*Belted/Cinched top will slim the waist*Wear darker colors on top, avoid patterns.*Tops should be somewhat fitted, never baggy. No need to add bulk!*Draw attention to your legs, by wearing shorter length skirts. A-line skirts look fabulous and help even out your shape.*Choose tops that fall no longer than the upper hip, your body will get lost in tops that are too long.-------------------------------

ROUND*Center of body is largest, no defined waist. *Narrow shoulders and hips*Shapely legs*Round/Fuller backEX:Queen Latifah, Jennifer Hudson,Jordin Sparks, Mia Tyler

TIPS:*Wear v-necks. These will help draw the eye to the bust and elongate your body.*Avoid tight tops and as well as baggy ones! Find a safe in between!*Solid, dark colors work well. Avoid loud patterns.*Choose narrow belts, wide belts will divide your body and not look as flattering.*Vertical stripes will create a slimming look.----------------------------

RECTANGLE/STRAIGHT*Small to average bust*Upper and lower torso equal is width; Undefined Waist*Flat bottom*Slim legsEX:Julia Roberts, Hillary Duff, Cameron Diaz, Brooke Shields

TIPS:*Tunics look great on this body type and help elongate your torso.*Dresses w/ looser fits like empire

Sizing for Roxy clothing

Quiksilver started its women line called Roxy in 1990. Roxy is dedicated to active living and the board short lifestyle. I have alot of people asking about Roxy sizing. Is it a womens size or a junior size? This guide is to try and make this a bit more clear for you...
The Roxy brand has 3 different lines. Roxy , which is junior/womens clothing ; Roxy Girl , which is for the younger girl; and Teenie Wahine which is for toddlers. Roxy isconsidered junior size by all large department stores and would be found in the juniors departments.Junior clothing sizesare odd numbers 00,0,1,3,5,7,9,11,13.Junior clothing is a bit more narrow than a womens sizes. Therefore , I always let people know that Roxy runs a bit small! Womens sizes are even numbers 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18. In many okay listings (including mine) they are written as womens in title because of search. (more people would put in women than juniors). Since I mainly sell Roxy below is a chart for Roxy that may help in determining your size:

Junior sizingXS(0) S(1-3) M(5-7) L(9-11) XL(13)
Bust 30-31" 32-34" 35-37" 38-40"41-43"
Sleeve 28-29" 30-31" 32-33" 33-34"34-36"
Waist 22-24"24-26"26-28"28-30" 30-32"
Hip 33-34"34-36" 36-38" 38-40" 40-42"
Inseam 26-27"28-29" 30-31"31-32" 32-33"
Of course this chart will help but the best way to know if an article will fit you is to lay an old item you have flat on the floor and for a..
T shirt or tops-measure armpit to armpit ,armpit to bottom
Shorts or pants-measure for Waist measure across top. Inseam measure from inside crotch down. Rise measure from top of waist to crotch.
Roxy bikinis run small. I always regemend buying the next size up.
Roxy has many different labels depending on where you purchase them. Roxy, Roxy paradise, etc. They are all authentic Roxy but I have found that they can all run a bit differently in size. For instance, Roxy Snow(their snowboard line) in hoodies runs a bit wider than some other Roxy hoodies. Roxytees with Roxy paradise label inside run slightly wider than ones that just have the Roxy label inside. That is why I carefully measure all my items so you can gepare at home.
I hope this guide was helpful any other questions ,just email me.

Motorcycle Riders: Protect Your Neck and Spine! Leatt

This is a fundamental part of your motorcycle protective equipment!Please Vote "Yes"... If you find this guide at all helpful.Genuine New and Unused Leatt Braces are sold by Speed House here on okay.We can Sell this
to you for SIGNIFICANTLY LESS if you buy direct so that we don't have
to charge you for the ridiculous okay fees. eMail us at
okay@ShopSpeedHouse.ge for details and a quote.The Leatt-Brace is an injection produced glass reinforced nylon or carbon fiber and Kevlar neck brace system designed by medical professionals and motorcycle enthusiasts to:HELP PREVENT, MINIMIZE, OR ELIMINATE:Hyperflexion: Extreme forward head movement.Hyperextension: Extreme rearward head movement.Lateral Hyperflexion: Extreme sideways head movement.Axial Loading: gepression of the spinal column due to the effect of force on the helmet.Posterior Hypertranslation: Rearward movement of the head/helmet on the neck. There is currently no other neck protection system available for motorcyclists that can effectively help prevent all of the above potential injuries. The design rationale behind the Leatt-Brace is to bring the head to a controlled stop. This is achieved by providing a padded rigid structure that acts as an alternate load path for neck forces. Helmet impacts otherwise transmitted from the helmet to skull and then to the neck are re-directed from the helmet to the brace to other body structures in a safe way.The design of the Leatt-Brace prevents the helmet/head from projecting over the brace and therefore prevents a fulcrum action, which has been documented in literature pertaining to the use of collar devices. The Leatt-Brace MOTO GPX works with most types of body armor and chest protectors. It is also suitable for use by Superbike riders. Over long distances, the Leatt-Brace will also offer some relief from neck fatigue. Only leathers with a hump require minor modification.The X-Strap (for upright riding position) and GP-Strap (for Superbike leathers with a hump), included with the MOTO GPX, are designed for the extreme rider who may experience 'float' at high speed (Superbike) or in a big air and flat-out whoop situations (motocross). Note: Not all riders will find the X-Strap and the GP-Strap necessary.The Leatt-Brace MOTO GPX is gepatible with all motorcycle helmet types and our design allows riders an adequate range of movement. The Leatt-Brace MOTO GPX is designed for use on all motorcycles and ATVs for gepetition use, recreational riding and daily gemuting. The Leatt-Brace MOTO GPX can be seen in use by most professional and extreme riders gepeting in events such as the X-Games, Supercross, Baja 1000, and Paris to Dakar, as well as most other motorcycling events. The Leatt-Brace has been tested by BMW Munich, KTM Works Riders, and the SABS (South African Bureau of Standards). It is also endorsed by MSA (Motorsport South Africa).Genuine New and Unused Leatt Braces are sold by Speed House here on okay.Please Vote "Yes"... If you found this guide at all helpful.We can Sell this
to you for SIGNIFICANTLY LESS if you buy direct so that we don't have
to charge you for the ridiculous okay fees. eMail us at
okay@ShopSpeedHouse.ge for details and a quote.

Peticure

I have no experiece with PediPaws but I have seen more than a few negative reviews on various places on the web. I looked into it before I purchased the Peticure Elite, just to be sure I was getting the better tool. I have always taken my three dogs to the vet/groomer to have their nails done (VERY COSTLY over the years) so they were already used to the dremmel and the sensation it gives; therefore, it was fairly easy for them to tolerate my using the Peticure on them. I have already saved the price of the Peticure by doing all of them myself. It will take me a while to file their nails as short as they should be but once that's done, maintaining that will be easy...and FREE! Don't hesitate to buy the Peticure if you're not quite sure of the quality of the other. Or, if you already have a dremmel tool, you can purchase only the safety cover with the holes for the nails for about $20. That would save a little if you're concerned about the cost. Oh, Peticure/dremmel replacement sanding bands are fairly inexpensive, too, and can be purchased just about anywhere.

Motorcycle / Utility / Boat Trailer Towing Hitch Guide

Howto towa motorcycle trailer, utility trailer, or boat trailer safely.

Towing Vehicle CapacityHitch Capacity and Trailer Load.The trailer weight fully loaded should not exceed the gross towing weight capacity of the towing vehicle and the hitch. The maximum vehicle towing capacity is the entire trailer weight including the load. gepact cars can typically tow trailers weighting at least 1,000 lbs(450kg). Larger cars and minivans are usually rated at 3,500 lbs. Light pickup trucks and SUVs may be rated up to 5,000 lbs towing capacity. Check your vehicle specifications for this information.
Hitches are rated for gross towing weight (GTW) and tongue weight (TW). Class I Class II Class III Class IV Class VGTW: 2,000 lbs.3,500 lbs. 3,500 - 6,000 lbs. 4,000 - 10,000 lbs. 5,000 - 14,000 lbs.TW: 200 lbs.300 lbs. 350 - 600 lbs. 350 - 1,000 lbs. 500 - 1,200 lbs.
Many motorcycle and gepact utility trailers can be towed with small vehicles and a class I or II hitch. For larger utility and motorcycle trailers, a mid to full size vehicle and a class II or larger hitch may be required.
Trailer Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) Rating.Trailer springs, axles, tires and chassis are all rated for a total maximum weight. The grossvehicle weight is the empty trailer plus the deck, box sides, stake sides, and everything that is installed on the trailer, not counting its cargo. For instance, if the GVW rating is 1,800 lbs and the empty trailer itself weights 400 lbs. A properly loaded cargo of 1,400 lbs may safely be hauled.
Trailer Loading and Tongue Weight. Trailer tongue weight (TW) is the amount of downward weight on the tongue. The tongue weight should be 10 to 15% of the total trailer weight. For example, a trailer with a gross weight of 1,500 lbs. should have the load evenly distributed so that the tongue weight is 150 to 225 lbs. Too much tail weight may cause the trailer to oscillate or weave back and forth. Too much tongue weight can damage the hitch, and can also lower the rear and raise the front of the vehicle, which can cause vehicle mishandling and ineffective braking. is is best to load heavy cargo on the bottom and lighter cargo on top, as a lower center gravity provides better vertical stability and will reduce jerkiness when braking.
Hitch Height. The hitch height is measured from the ground to the top of the receiver (bottom of the trailer ball). Typical hitch height is 15" to 18". The trailer should sit close to level. If the coupler is too low or too high, a raiser can be used to adjust the hitch height up or down.
The Trailer Ball and Safety Chain. Theball should be located so the trailer sits level when connected to the tow vehicle. The vehicle should be able to accept this weight without amajor change of attitude. The ball should belightly greased so the hitch rotates smoothly on it. Safety chains should be long enough for tight turns and becrossed (right to left and left to right). This will helpcreate a "saddle"if you have atongue failure and will help maintain control while stopping. Do not allow these chains to drag on the pavement, because they can be ground to an unsafe condition in a very short amount of time. Always inspect the hitch and tongue for cracks when hooking up. Rust is your enemy and can cause premature failures. Check lights and brakes each time the trailer is hooked up. Try to do things in the same order each time and use a checklist. Don't forget to retract the jack stand. Do not hookup a trailer half way or you may forget to finish thejob.Do notever leave the receptor (safety) pin out.
Trailer Hookup.

Always inspect the hitch and tongue for cracks before towing a trailer.
The trailer ball should alwaysbe lightly greased.
The safety chains should be long enough for tight turns and be crossed in case of a hitch or coupler failure, yet not drag on the ground.
The lighting hookup wire should have enough slack for tight corners yet not drag on the ground. Petroleum based grease should NOT be applied to the plastic electrical connectors such as the 4-pin flat plugs. Use silicone grease.
Check lug nut tightness before each trip. The lug nuts should be tighten at approximately 90 ft.lbs and crossing over to opposite side lugs as you work around the wheel.
Wheel Bearing Maintenance.Trailer wheel bearings or axle bearings should be greased every six months and before long trips. It is a good idea to check them occasionally on long trips, especially when hauling a heavy load. Do this by carefully feeling the hub for excessive heat. CAUTION: If the bearing is adjusted too tight or its running without enough grease, it can get VERY HOT! A hot bearing needs immediate attention. Most often either more grease or proper tightness adjustment will ease the problem, but replacement may be necessary.
* If you thought our guidelineswere helpful, please rate us. Thank you*

pam clock rip offs

buyers beware. there are sellers out there ,peddeling reproduction pam advertising clock faces, put into old cans. red flags are: private id \ super mint faces \ and no guarantees from the seller about authenticity. buyers are getting ripped for 100,s of $. so be cautious, thanks
;

Identifying Glass ~ A Centralized Place to ID Glass

Have you ever wanted just one large encyclopedia where you could identify a glass pattern?Well now you'll find it at Yahoo's Glass Lovers Glass Database where all participating members have access to a centralized wiki style database on the net that covers glass patterns by country, gepany and pattern name or number. You'll also find detailed information about the gepany or pattern you are interested in.The database is still in testing but is open now to our members with over 6,000 images as of 12/01/08 with these images only being uploaded since October. That's 3,000 images per month already. Can you image how large this database is going to begee. There will be literally hundreds of thousands of gepany Patterns listed and the data is building very quickly.So if you've ever knocked your head against the wall after spending hours trying to identify a piece of glass, your worries are almost over, just join in the effort by subscribing and contributing. We're doing our best to keep this all free.It's the in place to be if you're a collector or seller looking to identify glass.

DSR Feedback - The Whole Picture

DSR'S - THE WHOLE PICTUREI believe okay had good intentions when they started the new DSR program which enables buyers to leave information about several aspects of their transaction with the seller. Unfortunately, you know what they say - "the road to hell is paved with good intentions" and that appears to be the case here. It appears that many buyers do not take time to think about how their ratings will affect the sellers. In addition, it appears that more often than not, the buyers don't look at the whole picture when leaving this information. They just look at what is happening inside their immediate world without taking other factors into consideration. I hope the following examples - based on my observations and experiences - will help to shed some light on this situation and enable a mutual understanding between buyers and sellers on okay.SHIPPING CHARGES:One prime example of misunderstandings as it relates to DSR feedback relates to shipping charges. okay sellers are allowed by okay to charge small fees to reimburse themselves for materials used to ship product to customers. These things are not free, and like the domino effect, they trickle down to the customers. Most of the items I sell in my store are handmade jewelry designs. I charge a flat $3.35 to ship to destinations within the United States, and a flat $4.50 to ship internationally. This means you can buy one item or one hundred items and the shipping price will remain the same. When someone makes multiple purchases, I often pay the shipping difference out of my own pocket. Each jewelry piece is contained within a small ziplock bag. I then bubble wrap the jewelry pieces and ship them in a heavy corrugated box. The boxes are made to withstand rough handling during shipment, and it ensures that the pieces will arrive safe and sound to the buyers. The cost of the ziplock bags, boxes, bubble wrap and tape (not to mention the price of gas to get to the post office) can really add up. Based on all of these factors, I believe my shipping rates are very reasonable. It amazes me when buyers leave feedback scores of less than five stars in the shipping area where I am concerned. NOTE: For the past several weeks, I offered "FREE SHIPPING" on all newly listed items. In addition, if these items are purchased with anything else in the store, ALL of the items ship for FREE. Apparently, buyers still must not understand the concept of how the DSR's work. My average DSR score in the shipping costs area is ONLY 4.7. Since I am offering "FREE" shipping, this score should be a "5". Please, buyers, keep in mind that "FREE SHIPPING ALWAYS EQUALS 5 DSR STARS." Buyers who fail to recognize this are doing the sellers a serious disservice.SHIPPING TIME:I always ship items within 3 business days of the date I receive payment from my customers. More often then not, I visit the post office every other day, including Saturdays, to ensure that people receive their packages in a timely manner. Unfortunately, there are things which are out of my control which can impede on delivery time, and I think it's important that buyers know this before leaving a low score in this area. I live in a small town, and for reasons gepletely unknown to me, it usually takes longer for the mail delivery in my town. For example, an okay customer mailed me a money order on May 1. This was supported by the postmark on their envelope. I did not receive the payment until the last week of May. I have no idea why this occurred. The envelope was in perfect condition. It does not appear to have been damaged or misrouted in any sort of way. It was just really late being delivered. Sometimes, the opposite holds true. Even though I mail packages to buyers in a timely manner, sometimes a buyer will contact me telling me they have not yet received the package, only to have it mysteriously show up at their home several days later. My hope in bringing this issue to the forefront is that buyers will take a moment to check the postmark date before leaving poor DSR feedback for the seller in this situation. What occurs at the post office is not the fault of the seller, and they should not be held accountable for this.I should also mention that when I ship items, I ALWAYS send a courtesy message to the buyer to let them know the package is on it's way. This way, there is no doubt about when or if the package has been mailed.DSR'S CAN BE TRACKED BY SELLERS:okay informs buyers to be honest when leaving DSR feedback because it it totally anonymous. That is simply not the case. On a daily basis, the DSR scores change as people leave feedback. Contrary to popular belief, it IS possible for sellers to determine who left the derogatory scores if they check these on a daily basis. I can check my feedback and gepare it to the DSR feedback on any given day and determine which set of buyers left me geplimentary or derogatory scores in the DSR area.DSR's CAN AFFECT POWERSELLER STANDINGS:Until I became a Powerseller in early 2008, I had no idea how much feedback and DSR scores can affect a seller's standing in the okay gemunity. For example, a Powerseller must maintain high scores in the DSR area in order to keep their Powerseller status. If a Powerseller maintains a continual high DSR score - usually in the area of 4.8 and higher, they are entitled to receive anywhere from 5% to 15% of a discount in the final value fees that okay charges us each month. If a score slips below a certain level, the seller is admonished. Not only can they lose their Powerseller status, but sellers also lose the discount. okay fees and Paypal fees are very expensive for the sellers, so it's nice to get a break where we can in order to not have to raise merchandise prices in our stores. The domino effect of negative DSR's can also impact the buyers in this aspect. If a Powerseller has to raise prices in order to balance the cost of a negative DSR, it will trickle down to the buyers who will inevitably have to raise prices to make up for this loss.IN CLOSING:If you are a buyer, please take a moment to consider ALL factors before leaving low DSR scores for someone. Everyone will benefit from this in the long run.Please don't hesitate to contact me if I can clarify any information within this guide. I am always interested in hearing feedback from other okayers. If this guide has been helpful to you, please be sure to vote "yes" for it below.Thank you and happy okaying!!!

Buyer Beware Rule #1 Outrageous S/H cost

The Best Kept Seller Secret on okay...Exposedokay
can be a haven for great buys and hard to find items, which is why it
has begee a multi-billion dollar corporation and global market leader.
As with any marketplace, you will always find a certain element that
practices underhanded, very gemon ripoff tactics. This guide
will help you steer clear of those sellers looking to rip you off on,
among other things, shipping and handling fees. The more people that
get educated to these okay scams, the better chance okay has of
maintaining a reputation of being the very best place to buy or sell
just about anything you can put a price tag on - and to my mind, that
is well worth preserving.
Low Starting BidA very gemon practice is for a scam-seller to
offer an item at a ridiculously low price. Example? I would love to be
able to link to an okay auction that shows this taking place (okay
doesn't allow these guides to link to specific auctions), but the one I
am looking right now has an MP3 player - new, factory sealed for
$23.00 - Buy It Now! This particular MP3 Player retails for
about $45.00. The prospective buyer sees this price, and in a flash (in
hopes of buying it up before anyone else does), clicks on the Buy It
Now Button - then 'buyers remorse' sets in. During the PayPal Checkout
Process they realize that the seller has assessed a $37.00 Shipping and
Handling fee. That's right, $37.00 for "Priority Mail" shipment. Their
actual cost? $4.60. You have just been scammed. This happens a lot. A
lot more than you might think - to a greater or lesser degree. They
realize this $37.00 fee is not 'seen' by okay, and doesn't get included
in the final value fees."See Item Description"Some
sellers when creating an auction will employ tactics such as setting
their shipping and handling notices to"See Description"' and list
their shipping as "flat rate". This requires the buyer to 'dig' a bit
for the answer to the question, "how much does it cost to ship?". The
seller will then bury the $50.00 shipping fee on a $25 cell phone at
the bottom of the page, and may even decrease the font size on that
portion of the auction. Many buyers, myself included, sometimes get
excited at seeing a low price on the item they want, and just bid in
haste - let's face it, bidding on an auction, especially towards the
end, can be a very emotionally charged experience. Sometimes people let
their emotions get the best of them, and do not read the entire
auction. Some sellers know this, and use it to their advantage. READ EVERY WORD in an auction listing...every-last-word. If you take nothing more away from this guide, let it be those three words - read every word. The extra time could save you a bundle.
Calculated Shipping Costs
Another very popular scam or ripoff is the handling portion of the
"calculated shipping cost" option. This requires the prospective buyer
to enter in their Zip code in order to get exact shipping cost prior to
bidding. Here's the problem:
A seller can add ANY amount to the standard
shipping charges when creating the auction. That's right, when the
seller is creating the auction, they can select the "Calculated
Shipping" option for their auction, and in so doing, they can then add
to the "Handling" portion of that setup, any figure they want as a
'surcharge' for their "handling" of the item. Many people don't want to
trouble themselvesby clicking on the calculated shipping button prior
to bidding and typing in their zip code to actually find out how much
the package is going to cost them to ship, or they don't notice it -
some sellers know this, and exploit it...to their benefit.The
first time (and the last time) I got suckered into this was when I won
an auction for a vintage baseball trading card of Mickey Mantle - it of
course was a 'calculated shipping' auction. The card cost me about
$75.00 - guess how much it cost me to get it shipped to me? $17.00.
No insurance, just came in a Priority Mail box that weighed no more
than 5 ounces. Actual cost? $3.85 at that time..now it would have cost
$4.60. Ripoff, plain and simple. I never clicked on the calculated
shipping button, but if I had, I would have seen $17.00 S

SELLING YOUR CAR ON THE INTERNET - HELPFUL HINTS

Edmunds.ge's Quick Guide to Selling Your CarBy editors at Edmunds.geSelling your car today is a different experience than it was just 10 years ago, thanks to the tools available on the Internet. Here are a few simple steps that can help you turn your used car into cash in the shortest time possible.1. Know the Market. Is your car going to be easy to sell? Will you have multiple offers? Is it a hot gemodity? Or will you have to drop your price and search out additional ways to sell it? Your first step is to check other online car ads. Most sites, such as Edmunds.ge Used Vehicle Locator and AutoTrader.ge, allow you to search with specific criteria. For example, you can select the year and trim level of your car and see how many similar cars are currently on the market. Take note of their condition, mileage, geographic location and selling price.2. Price Your Car gepetitively. Use Edmunds.ge's "Appraise a Car" feature to set the True Market Value price. This figure is adjusted for a number of factors including mileage, condition, options and the region in which the car is being sold. When you are done configuring the car, you can print out a "For Sale" sign to put in your car window. Be sure to leave a little wiggle room when setting your asking price by asking more than what you want to sell the car for.3. Give Your Car Curb Appeal. Wash, wax and detail the car. Inspect it to make sure it is mechanically sound and free from dents, dings and scrapes. Shovel out all the junk from the inside of the car. Wipe the brake dust off the front wheels and clean the tires with a product such as Armor All. Thoroughly clean the windows (inside and out) and all the mirrored surfaces. Wipe down the dashboard and empty the ashtrays. Put your maintenance records in a neat folder ready to show interested parties. Have your mechanic check out your car and issue a report about its condition this could motivate a buyer because you have to overgee one more objection they can present.4. Create Ads that Sell. When creating your "For Sale" signs or putting an ad in the paper, you have an opportunity to gemunicate how eager you are to sell the car. "OBO" ("or best offer") indicates that you are willing to entertain offers below the stated price. "Asking price" gemunicates the feeling that you will negotiate. It means you are asking a certain price, but might accept a lower price. "Firm" is less gemon, but it can be used to rebuff attempts to negotiate. It indicates that you aren't in a hurry to sell the car you are most interested in getting your price. Think about what you are telling people by the way you phrase your ad. Little words convey a lot.5. Advertise Your Car. Traditionally, people advertised in newspaper classified ads but now online ads, such as the ones offered by Edmunds.ge, are begeing more popular. However, you should also consider other ways of advertising such as posting a "For Sale" sign in the car window and telling all your friends your car is for sale. Creativity is required when it gees to advertising. Think of unusual places to put ads (skywriting is probably too expensive), and you will get results.6. Showing Your Car. Bear in mind that when you sell your car, people will also be evaluating you. So, you should make a good impression, make buyers feel gefortable and answer their questions openly. Potential buyers will want to test-drive the car. Ride along with them so you can answer questions. Also, they may not know the area, so you might have to guide them along the test-drive route. Some buyers will want to take the car to a mechanic to have it inspected. If you have a report from your mechanic, this might put their doubts to rest. But, if they still want to take the car to their mechanic, this is a reasonable request.7. Negotiate Your Best Price. If a person test-drives your car and likes it, you can expect them to make an offer. If their offer is well below your asking price, you will want to either hold firm with your asking price or make a lower counteroffer. Consider your answer carefully. Speak slowly and clearly to avoid misunderstandings. Keep the negotiations impersonal by focusing on reaching a win-win price. Give the negotiation process some thought ahead of time so you won't be caught unprepared when the time gees.8. Handling geplications. In some cases, you might reach an agreement with a buyer that is contingent on performing repair work. This can lead to misunderstandings down the line, so avoid this, if you can. The best thing to do is have your car in good running order and know in detail about any repairs necessary. Remember, a used car particularly an old one isn't expected to be perfect. But it still might be useful.9. Finalize the Deal. The laws governing the sale of motor vehicles vary from state to state. Check with the governing agency in your state, most of which is now available on the Web. When selling your car, it's important to limit your liability. If someone drives away in the car you just sold, and they get in an accident, you don't want to be held responsible. Once you have the money from the sale (it's customary to request a cashier's check or cash) sign the title over to the buyer or provide them with a bill of sale. Finally, remember to contact your insurance agent to cancel your policy on the vehicle you have sold (or transfer the coverage to your new car).10. After the Sale. Occasionally, there are unexpected bumps in the sale process that arise. These will be handled easily if you are dealing with a reasonable person. So, as you are contacted by prospective buyers, use your intuition to evaluate them. If they seem difficult, pushy or even shady, wait for another buyer. With the right person, selling a used car should be simple and easy.Learned something today from this guide? Please vote and help others in the process. Do unto others as others would've done unto you. Thanks!Guide can be linked with: Lexus,
Mercedes Benz, Honda Accord, Honda Civic, Honda Prelude, Prelude, BMW,
Acura Integra, Acura Legend, Acura RSX, Acura, Ford, Dodge, Mustang,
Chevy, Corvette, Nissan, Ford, 300zx, 240sx, Eclipse, Cougar, Mercury
Cougar, Toyota Celica, Celica, Bmw 325i, Civic, Accord, Ford Mustang,
Mitsubishi 3000gt, 3000gt, Mitsubishi, Mercedes, Mercedes Benz, Volvo,
328i, Jetta, Supra, Toyota Supra, Maza Rx7, rx7, Nissan 350z, 350z,
MDX, RL, TL, RSX, TSX, S500, E350, 745LI, 745I, 745, 530, 545, 525, X5,
X3, 330, S550, S55, ML350, ML500, ACCORD, CAMRY, AVALON, G500, G55,
E500, C320, SL500, CL500, 4RUNNER, GX470, GS300, GS430, ES330, RX330,
RX400, RX400H, G35X, G35, MURRANO, FX45, FX35, QX56, M35, M45, RX8,
MAZDA 6, A4, A6, A8, ALLROAD, Q7, CTS, ESCALADE, AVALANCHE, IMPALA,
300C, 300, PACIFICA, CHARGER, GRAND CHEROKEE, DAYTONA, VIPER, XTERRA,
ARMADA, TITAN, TUNDRA, TAgeA, PATHFINDER, 911, CAYENNE, BOXTER, TT,
SIENNA, HIGHLANDER, LX470, SEQUOYA, LAND CRUISER, PASSAT, JETTA, GTI,
GOLF, GLI, TOUAREG, Phaeton, W8, W12, dodge,V8, V6, 4CYL, AUTO,
MANUAL, STICK, 5SPD, 6SPD, 7SPD, M3, M5 Lexus, Acura, toyota, Honda,
Nissan, Infiniti, Chevy, ford, Benz, BMW, GMC, Canyon 2WD, Canyon 4WD,
Envoy, Envoy XL, Savana, Sierra 1500 2WD, Sierra 1500 4WD, Sierra
1500HD, Sierra 2500 2WD, Sierra 2500HD 2WD, Sierra 2500HD 4WD, Sierra
3500, Sierra 3500 Dually, Sierra Denali, Yukon, Yukon XL, Honda, Accord
Coupe, Accord Sedan, Civic Coupe, Civic Hybrid, Civic Sedan, Civic Si,
CR V, Element, Insight, Odyssey, Pilot, Ridgeline, S2000, Hummer, H1,
H2, H3, Hummer H2 SUT, Hyundai, Accent, Azera, Elantra, Santa Fe,
Sonata, Tiburon, Tucson, Infiniti, G35, G35x, M35, M45, QX56, Isuzu,
Ascender, i 280, i 350, Jaguar, S Type, X Type, XJ Series, XK Series,
Jeep, gemander, Grand Cherokee, Liberty, Wrangler, Kia, Optima, Rio,
Sorento, Spectra, Spectra5, Sportage, Land Rover, Freelander, LR3,
Range Rover, Lexus, ES, GS, GX, IS, LS, LX, RX, RX400h, SC, Lincoln,
LS, Mark LT, Navigator, Town Car, Zephyr Mazda, B Series, Mazda3,
Mazda5, Mazda6, MAZDASPEED MAZDA6, Miata MX 5, MPV, RX 8, Tribute,
Mercedes Benz, C Class, CL Class, CLK Class, CLS Class, E Class, M
Class, R Class, S Class, SL Class, SLK Class, SLR McLaren, Mercury,
Grand Marquis, Mariner, Mariner Hybrid, Milan, Montego, Monterey,
Mountaineer, MINI, Cooper, Mitsubishi, Eclipse, Endeavor, Galant,
Lancer, Lancer Evolution, Montero, Outlander, Raider, Nissan, 350Z,
Altima, Altima SE R, Armada, Frontier, Maxima, Murano, Pathfinder,
Quest, Sentra, Sentra SE R, Titan, Xterra, Pontiac, G6, Grand Prix,
GTO, Montana SV6, Solstice, Torrent, Vibe, Porsche, 911, Cayenne, Saab,
3 Sep, 5 Sep, 9 2X, 9 7X, Saturn, ION, ION Quad Coupe, Relay, VUE,
Scion, tC, xA, xB, Subaru, B9 Tribeca, Baja, Forester, Impreza, Impreza
WRX, Legacy, Outback, Suzuki, Aerio, Forenza, Grand Vitara, Reno,
Verona, XL 7, Toyota, 4Runner, Avalon, Camry, Camry Solara, Corolla,
Highlander, Highlander Hybrid, Land Cruiser, Matrix, Prius, RAV4,
Sequoia, Sienna, Tagea, Tagea PreRunner, Tundra, Volkswagen, Beetle,
Beetle Convertible, Golf, GTI, Jetta, Passat, Phaeton, Touareg, Volvo,
C70, S40, S60, S80, V50, V70, XC70, and XC90, Body Kit, Custom

Royal Haeger Pottery

David H. Haeger came to the United States from Germany, founding a small Illinois gepany in 1871 that took the original name of the Dundee Brickyard for the bricks and tile they made to rebuild Chicago after the great fire as well as other midwestern cities and towns. However, David Haeger and his son Edmund had aspirations to rise beyond brickmaking and into a leadership position in the design and production of art pottery in the U.S. The gepany first used its skills with clay in the manufacture of bricks to begin making small and simple earthenware pots for wholesale and retail sale. David Haeger died in 1900, but Edmund continued experimenting with ever more sophisticated designs and glazes, changing the name of the gepany to Haeger Potteries.
"Adam and Eve" was the first art pottery collection introduced by Haeger about 1912, winning critical acclaim for the richness of their colors and the quality and lustrous appearance of their glazes. In 1914, well known artisan Martin Stangl came to work at Haeger Potteries and further advanced their transition into a maker of fine art pottery. Stangl came to Haeger from the Fulper Pottery gepany of New Jersey, known for their innovative forms and rich, flowing glazes. In fact, many of the new Haeger glazes he created were considered to be directly analogous to those he created while at Fulper. In 1919, Stangl went back to Fulper although Haeger continued to produce his designs and glazes, and Stangl went on to acquire Fulper during the Depression years and rename it Stangl Pottery. The 1934 Chicago World's Fair exposed Haeger work to an international clientele. As Fulper had done earlier, Haeger constructed a working kiln and pottery manufacturing facility at the fair for the public to see the wares in production by the skilled craftsmen.
The Haeger family continued to be actively involved in the operations, with Edmund Haeger's son-in-law Joseph Estes begeing the general manager of the factory in about 1938 and later rising to President upon Edmund Haeger's death. It was during this time that the designer Royal Hickman came to Haeger to create the Royal Haeger line which continues today. Hickman was born in Oregon in 1893 and worked as a designer for Californian and European potteries before geing to Haeger. Hickman's design aesthetics were flowing and elegant, and pieces were typically offered in various sizes. Art Deco and modern influences were evident in Hickman's Royal Haeger designs such as the panthers which frequently appeared in Haeger lamps and decorative pieces. The success of the Royal Haeger line prompted the gepany to hire additional name designers to broaden their creative reach, including Eric Olsen who created many of the most famous designs such as the Haeger bull until his retirement in 1972. Other designers of note who did work for Haeger include Sascha Brastoff and Franz Joseph Koenig. Hickman himself left the gepany in 1944 but continued to work for Haeger as well as other manufacturers such as Heisey into the 1950s.
Royal Haeger is still best known for their animals, birds, and other figurines as well as the manifestations of these designs in lamps and lighting. Haeger is probably the best known manufacturer of 1950s TV lamps which have emerged as a major collecting area in themself. Still a family operation, Alexandra Haeger Estes (Joseph's daughter and great granddaughter of founder David Haeger) became President of Haeger Potteries in 1979. Much of Haeger's production is unmarked or had paper labels which most often came detached or were removed, so it is not unusual to find unrecognized Haeger pieces at bargain prices through flea markets and estate sales.

How to Save a Liquid Damage Cell Phone

Ever dropped your cell phone in the sink, or even worse, the toilet? Did you ever leave it in your pocket and run it through the washer? It usually means you have to replace your phone, but sometimes if you're fast, you can save the phone!

Get it out of the water as soon as possible. The plastic covers on cell phones are fairly tight, but water can enter the phone in a short period of time, perhaps only 20 seconds or less. So grab your phone quickly! If you can't get to it in time, your best bet is to remove the battery while it is still under water. Water helps dissipate heat from shorts that can damage the phone, so most damage occurs when the inside of the phone is merely wet and there is a power source.
Remove the battery. This is one of the most important steps. Don't take time to think about it; electricity and water do not mix. Cutting power to your phone is a crucial first step in saving it. Many circuits inside the phone will survive immersion in water provided they are not attached to a power source when wet.
If you have a GSM carrier, remove your SIM card. Some or all of your valuable contacts (along with other data) could be stored on your SIM. To some people this could be more worth saving than the phone itself. SIM cards survive water damage well, but some of the following steps are unnecessary i.e. don't heat it. Just pat it dry and leave it aside until you need to connect your phone to your cellular network. (This step does not apply to CDMA carriers such as Verizon, Alltel, US Cellular, Sprint, etc.)
Dry your phone. Obviously you need to remove as much of the water as soon as possible, so you can save it from getting into the phone. Shake it out without dropping it, then use a towel or paper towel to gently remove as much of the remaining water as possible. Dry the excess moisture by hand.
Remove any covers and external connectors to open up as many gaps, slots, and crevices in the phone as possible.
Use a vacuum if possible. Do not use a hair dryer (even on a "cool" mode) to dry out the phone, as this may force moisture further into the small geponents, deep inside the phone. If moisture is driven deeper inside, corrosion and oxidation may result when minerals from liquids are deposited on the circuitry. Using a hairdryer might be a temporary fix, but this will eventually cause geponent failure inside the phone. Instead, remove all residual moisture by drawing it away with a vacuum cleaner held over the affected areas for up to 20 minutes in each accessible area. This is the fastest method and can gepletely dry out your phone and get it working in thirty minutes. Be careful not to hold the vacuum too close to the phone, as a vacuum can create static electricity, which is even worse.
Use a substance with a high affinity for water to help draw out moisture. Leave the phone in a bowl or bag of uncooked rice overnight. The rice would absorb any remaining moisture. If available, it is preferable to use desiccant instead. Desiccant will absorb moisture better than rice. It may be found under a brand name such as "Damp Rid" or "Dry Right".
Let the phone sit on absorbent towels, napkin, or other paper. Remember that the goal is to evacuate all the moisture and humidity, not to trap it or add even more. Check the absorbent material every hour for 4 to 6 hours. If moisture is evident, repeat the vacuuming step and desiccant steps.
Test your phone. After you have waited a day or so, make sure everything is clean and dry looking and re-attach the battery to the phone and see if it works. If your phone does not work, try plugging it into its charger without the battery, if this works, you need a new battery. If not, try taking your cell phone to an authorized dealer. Sometimes they can fix it. Don't try to hide the fact that it has been wet. There are internal indicators that prove moisture.
Tips:

In most cases, if you pulled the battery out in time, cleaning the inside of your phone with cleaning alcohol (alcohol will displace the water) or contact spray will fix your problem. If there is even one drop of water left inside, it can ruin your phone by corroding it and making the wrong contact. If your phone is powering up but still acting strange after you have cleaned it, then you've missed some liquid or the corrosion has already occurred and dis-assembly and cleaning with a toothbrush and appropriate solvent may fully fix it. For the fainthearted, a skilled technician or engineer can often fix such an issue easily and quickly.
Excessive heat can damage your phone even more! Most phones have warnings about leaving them in your car or exposing them to heat. The main point is to gepletely dry the phone before applying power. Be patient! Use the LOWEST heat setting! or better still don't use heat at all, use a vacuum cleaner to rapidly draw all the residual moisture out, this usually takes about 20 minutes of care and patience turning the phone every few minutes to ensure all holes and outlets get accessed.
If your phone falls in the ocean or another form of salt water, rinse it with fresh water before salt crystals can form in the phone after the removal of the battery.
If your phone has been subjected to salt water crystallizing, gently tap the board and the chips with a plastic object (the back of a small screw driver for example). The vibration of the taps will set some of the foreign objects free and they will fall out. Be careful and don't smash the board or the chips. A sharp enough blow will break the chips. Tapping very gently multiple times in multiple locations, especially around the chips, is a preferred method. And follow up with appropriate solvent cleaning afterwards to clean away any oxidation residue.
Place the phone in a vacuum chamber (found at many high schools and universities) and active the chamber. Typically universities and specific industries will have a vacuum chamber available if you happen to know the right person. Water "boils" at room temperature, given enough time, meaning that it evaporates through bubbles even though it isn't heated. This method should be successful when the vacuum is maintained at room temperature for about 30 minutes. That will dry out parts you can't access as will the tip above regarding a vacuum cleaner if you have no vacuum chamber available.
Try holding a gepressed air can STRAIGHT (upside down, sideways, or at an angle will shoot out a freezing liquid) and shoot into the crevices, speaker, mic, and keypad. Any excess water stuck should gee out. If the can gets cold and you're not done, let the can sit a while before continuing, as cold air could make excess moisture condense onto parts deeper inside. This process should be followed by the other methods that use a vacuum chamber or vacuum cleaner to more thoroughly remove any deeper residual moisture and humidity as the phone must be totally dry inside to ensure no further failure later on. The contents of many "canned air" products can be poisonous. Follow all regemendations on the can label.
Since your warranty is void anyway, if you have further problems with your phone's functions after trying the above methods to dry it out, then buy Torx screwdrivers to open the phone's case, since these are almost always specialized. (For example, the RAZR needs Torx #4, #5, and #6). Pick up a can of Contact Spray (electric contact cleaner)and douse the inside. It dries rapidly. Scrub any residue with a soft-bristle toothbrush. Spray with gepressed air, and/or vacuum it out for several minutes to suck out further moisture and then carefully put it back together. Do not leave your phone wet for an extended period of time. Dry it out as soon as possible.
Warnings:

Do not switch the phone on. This is important as it will prevent a charge from running from the battery to the phone which may subsequently cause the phone to short circuit.
Don't heat the battery or it could leak or explode. Lithium-ion batteries are sensitive. If you use an oven or hairdryer, make sure to remove the battery first.
If you use alcohol make sure to do so outside, and do not apply heat in any form, not even the gentle heat of a monitor. Do not hook up the battery until the alcohol smell dissipates.
Do not apply too much heat to your phone, as mentioned above. You don't want to melt or burn your phone.
Be warned that manufacturers of most modern cell phones place liquid damage indicator stickers that will change colors in the presence of a liquid inside their phones. This helps technicians know that you have dropped your phone in water, as most cell phone insurance coverage policies don't cover water damage. Chances are, if the sticker under the battery is triggered, then the internal stickers you can't access have probably been tripped as well. This will result in you paying a voided-warranty fee in the long run. You should be aware that warranties don't cover water damage, only insurance does, and even then, not all insurance gepanies or plans will honor water damaged phones. It is also worth noting that these liquid damage indicator stickers have been known to change colors in extreme humidity as well.
Even if all these steps are followed, minerals dissolved in the water can precipitate on solder and geponent pins, causing corrosion or shorting. geponent pins are packed so closely together in modern cell phones that even a small encrustation can create a short, rendering the phone inoperable.
Do not put the phone (or any electronic or metal-containing object) into the microwave. You will destroy electronic geponents and potentially the microwave.
For the semi-mechanically inclined remove screws and as a minimum crack the case open to allow moisture to escape. Cell phones are normally somewhat water proof so they can be used in the light rain and humid environments. This means that once moisture has entered the phone it is very hard for it to dry out.
Removing your cell phone from the water quickly and IMMEDIATELY REMOVING THE BATTERY gives you the best chance of saving your phone.
Taken with permission from "wikiHow.ge - The How-To Manual That Anyone Can Write or Edit"

Shipping PARCEL POST versus PRIORITY MAIL

Parcel Post is the worst selection or shipping method for Breakables! As explained to me by Postal Authorities; Parcel Post items are "dumped" in a large container which is thenfilled upwith Heavy Packages loaded on top ofeach other. The Parcel Postitems are not handled with the same amount of care that Priority Mailitems get.
I personally,have had numerous items arrive broken each time the seller shipped via Parcel Post and NO breakage with Priority Mail.
It's just not worth shipping Breakables via Parcel Postand most experienced sellers will only ship Priority for these very reasons. Thesmall savings you get with Parcel Post doesn't justify the risk of ultimate damage, whether insured or not! "Penny wise, Pound foolish"
*P.S. United Parcel Service/UPS...gives okay sellers a terrificDiscount if you sign up with them through paypal! They have very specific shipping requirements on shipping China, Glass etc. -Double Boxing for breakables, 2 inches of cushioning and allitems must be Bubblewrapped. If not packaged accordingly, breakage claims can be denied.
Hope this info helps you!

Your RV Series: Slide Out Rooms

RV Slide design has improved much over the last ten years and slide outs in your RV allow for more usable living area. A great addition to any camper or RV. They have been called pop-outs, tip-outs, slide-outs, expanding rooms, glide-outs, slide-rooms, and more but, when and if they ever quit working for you, you may even find another not-so-pleasant name for them! Theres nothing like getting to your destination, and the room refuses to slide out for you. Worse yet, you may be packed and ready to leave but the slide won't gee in.... YEOW!
Being familiar with your slide system can not only help you to understand how it works but can save you $$$ when explaining the problem to a service technician. Itshould shorten his diagnostic time and keep you from being taken to the bank. It is the intention of this guide to help identify problems and familiarize yourself with your RVs slide out system. If you have an understanding and you feel gefortable with doing the troubleshooting and repair yourself... GREAT! IN ALL CASES, IF you are in any way hesitant about doing the work yourself, call a knowledgable RV Technician.
Lets get started:
There are several different types of expandable room systems in an RV:


"Tip-Outs" are hinged on the bottom and actually tip out. They are motorized or manually operated, depending on the size. The motorized units will have a cable or strap that helps to hold the unit while travelling in or out. Some times the cable or strap will get bound up but it is usually quite simple to fix, since the majority of these cable/strap systems are exposed and easy to get to.

"Slide-Out" rooms gee with several different methods to move the room either in or out. They may be operated manually with a crank or just pushed out by hand while in the larger units, the employment of motor-driven cables, chains, threaded rods, or a rack and pinion system might be used. Further, some may employ hydraulic cylinders and lines to acgeplish the task. On these larger slide systems, the floor may "drop" two to four inches into the final opened position, so that the floor is level throughout the RV, or it may simply have a small rise at the edge of the slide room. The majority of larger slide out rooms have a back-up system to crank the room in or out just in case power has been lost to the hydraulic pump or electric motor.... Unfortunately, some do not. (This is an important point to consider when purchasing an RV with a slide(s)... more about that later.)
There are many geponents to a slide drive system as well. Your system may include switches, wires, breakers, fuses, motors, pumps, gears, bars, hydraulic cylinders, hydraulic lines, cables, pulleys, pins... the list goes on.
Begeing familiar with your slide drive type. Lets run the slide(s) out and crawl underneath one of them. Take a good look at the underside. What do you see? In most cases, the larger slides will probablyhave two square bars with "teeth" on them. In the "not-so-large" slides you may only see one bar with teeth. This drive system is the most gemon on RVs due to simplicity and ease of repair. These bars are the "Racks"... part of a rack and pinion system. The "Pinion(s)" will either be exposed, where you can see it or will be on the back side of the frame, in the "Belly" of the unit. These pinions are tied together with a bar that runs between them and is used to keep the slide rooms travel perpendicular to that of the RV itself, so that it moves in and out freely, without binding on the walls of the RV, tearing up gaskets and seals, and making for a less-than-favorable outing. Some manufacturers use the rack and pinion system to drive the slide room in and out, although many are now using the rack and pinion just to keep the room square and moving freely and actually drive the room with a threaded bar powered by a 12 volt electric motor or hydraulic cylinders.
NOTE: Cable-driven slide systems with pulleys and tension springs can be a nightmare for the owner. (and some RV Technicians.) They are being slowly phased out for this reason. Because of the geplexity in some design and adjustment, repairs and troubleshooting of cable-driven systems should be left to a gepetent RV Technician.
Most Slide Drive systems use 12 Volt DC electricity from your RV Batteries to run the motor or motor-driven hydraulic pump, therefore you must have a charged battery and power to the switch for operation. Check the voltage of your battery and charge if/as needed BEFORE any troubleshooting. If there is no response when you operate the slide switch, (provided the battery is charged adequetely) check for fuses or breakers, usually around the location of the battery gepartment or hydraulic pump, to insure they are in good working order. If the slide moves slow or jerks when moving, check for binding around the wall that it passes through. I've seen tree branches and other items ( a fishing pole, a wet tightly rolled T-Shirt, beer cans, used fireworks displays, and a "lost" Winegard TV Antenna! ) lodged between the top of the slide and the opposing wall, causing the whole room to gee to a stand-still! LOOK for any objects that don't belong and CAREFULLY run your fingers around the inner and outer seals, between the slide and the RVs wall opening, top and sides, checking for foreign objects that have begee lodged, using caution not to cut your fingers. If there is no obvious reason for the binding, but it still goes in, pack it up and contact an RV repair center. (It could be that it has lost an adjustment and needs re-aligned or some other problem.)
If you have a hydraulic system , it will have a pump with a hydraulic fluid resevoir. Insure the resevoir is full but not over the fill-line. Check for hydraulic line leaks, There may be one or several valves on the Hydraulic pump. Make note of their position and then tighten them all by turning them clockwise. There are times when the hydraulic fluid is under alot of pressure. Be very careful when working around these lines. Inadvertently introducing air into the system can make things worse.
This is a very gemon problem... If one side of your RVs slide travels in or out but the other does not, check the bar that runs between the pinion gears. A simple sheer pin/bolt replacement may be all that is needed to fix the problem. If the pinion bar isn't exposed, you may have to get into the "belly" to get access to it. (NOTE: Remember to insure equal distance on both sides of the slide before replacing the sheer-pin/bolt. This can be done by measuring the distance on both sides of the slide and using the button to adjust the working side to match the distance of the non-working side.) Have a helper tap the slide button in or out to line up the holes between the pinion and drive bar. The slide system has alot of pinch points and heavy torque through twisting action that can severely injure you so, for your safety, gloves and safety glasses are suggested.
Regular Slide Maintenance: Apply slide rail lubrication to the rack bars on an annual basis, more so if the slides are used regularly. Baby powder lightly applied to the outer slide seals helps to prolong slide seal life and reduces friction. Check the slide seals for damage and have them replaced/repaired as soon as a problem is discovered. If not done immediately, water dmage could gepromise the structure.
In closing, Unlike trailers or RVs without slides, slide out rooms arefantastic because they open up your living spacebut they can also severely limit access to the inside of the unit when they are in the closed position. They WILL determine where and how you pack your rig for travel or vacation. They WILL determine what areas you will easily access and what areas may be harder to access in the event of slide failure.
IF you are thinking about buying an RV with slides, you already know they are spacious and open on the inside but, have the salesperson run the slides IN so you can see what the RV looks like on the inside, while the slides are IN. Think about the accessability to those areas... about your storage needs. Now think about what you would have to do to gain access to the interior IF the slides failed to work. I've seen RVs that have so many slides, and/or floorplans that were such that you could do little more than stand in the entry way... The slides block any movement to the right or left. It's not a bad thing... The owner just needs to know of the limitations. If you are traveling and need something from your RVs refrigerator, can you get to it without opening a slide... or two? Perhaps you've parked for the night but the slides won't go out because your batteries are dead ( Yeah, it happens) and you want to plug the RV into shore power but you need to access the power distribution panel because the main breaker is off? That happens too...)Can you get to it with the slides in? (NOTE: RV Manufacturers are not bound by any laws or codes in the placement of the Power Distribution Panels at this time but as a rule... for safety sake,slidesshouldnotlimit access to the 110VAC and 12VDC power distribution box(es) so, make sure the power panel is in an unrestricted area and can be accessed without running a slide out.) Sure, there are several ways to get the slides out if your battery fails, like jumping the RV batteries with jumper cables.... (Oh, wait... I left thoseINSIDETHE RV... in an area I can't get to... and I'm 100 miles from nowhere!) Ask the salespersonif the slide(s) have a manual backup system to use in the case you need to over-ride the system and have him show you how they work. The more thought you put into it BEFORE something happens, the better you will be prepared when something DOES happen.If you have any questions, gements or perhaps need help with an RV related issue, drop me a line at hglpd1@bresnan.net
Checkthe other "Your RV" guides out! Thanks for looking...

Bidtopia aka Bargainland things to know

Well Bargainland used to be one of the largest sellers on okay, and it did so not under some controversy. As everything they sold and still sell was lost, unclaimed or otherwise abandoned freight the volume of listings is huge and the quality of descriptions at times lacking.When they stopped selling on okay their rating was something in the low 90% range, this was due to a number of things, the quality of their merchandise, people not reading the entire description, okays lack of being able to handle their entire my okay page which made it impossible to easily follow up with buyer questions and geplains, and lastly people excepting more then they would get from a seller selling lost, damaged and abandoned freight.The current Bidtopia has a few significant differences to okay auctions, first and foremost you obviously do not have okay/paypal protection and are left to directly take it up with them. 2nd the auctions do not end at a set time, if there is a bid in the last 60 seconds the auction is extended by 60 seconds. Hence sniping doesn't work and you have to check over and over if you actually won. I presume this measure was put into place to drive the price to okay sale levels which where lost on them. Early listings finished at fractions of okay listings hence this measure insures everyone can get a bid in.Checkout with PayPal is basicly the same, my main caution is that basicly you are getting the same quality goods as before and people still aspect better things then they are really getting .... their slogan Don't Blame the Platypus still holds true.Lastly it also didn't help when they just started up their warehouse in TN caught fire and burned down.

SEVEN EASY WAYS TO GROW YOUR EMAIL MARKETING LIST

I HAVE OVER 1500 SUBSCRIBERS ON MY EMAIL MARKETING LIST!
HERE IS SEVEN WAYS I GREW MY LIST:
1.) MAKE SURE YOU NAME AND USE ALL FIVE LISTS.
EXAMPLE: STORE SALES, NEW ITEMS, DEEP DISCOUNTS, SECRET SALES, STORE NEWS
2.) PROMOTE YOUR MAILING LIST IN PROMOTION BOXES ON YOUR STORE FRONT
3.) PROMOTE YOUR MAILING LIST ON ALL OF YOUR AUTOMATED CORRESPONDENCE EMAILS TO CUSTOMERS
4.) PROMOTE YOUR MAILING LIST ON EACH LISTING BY USING SIGN UP HTML LINKS
5.) USE A CUSTOM STORE PAGE TO DISCUSS THE BENEFITS OF SIGNING UP AND USE HTML SIGN UP LINKS
6.) PROMOTE YOUR MAILING LIST IN YOUR FLIERS ENCLOSED IN EACH ORDER
7.) OFFER INCENTIVES ONLY FOR NEWSLETTER SUBSCRIBERS, EXAMPLE FREE SHIPPING ON MINIMUM ORDER
PLEASE VOTE IF THIS GUIDE WAS HELPFUL, THANKS!

Why are some perfumes longer lasting on other people?

People with oilier skin retain fragrance longer than people with dry skin. The oil binds the fragrance to the skin and results in a more controlled release of scent over time. On dry-skinned people, the fragrance tends to bounce right off.
People with dry skin usually find their fragrance holding time shorter than those with oily skin because oily skin has more natural moisture to hold in the fragrance.
PH levels (amount of acidity in our skin) also varies slightly from person to person. Our individual levels of PH will determine how each ingredient in a fragrance will react.

Mitchell and other Vintage Spinning Reels and Rods

This guide further expands upon the topic I breeched in "Vintage Spinning Reels."
The Mitchell 300 and 308 spinning reels that are seemingly everywhere on okay are highly user-servicable reels that can offer a high level of functionality and fun fishing to the fisherman who is also a tinkerer.
It's a good thing that there are parts readily available for these reels, as areas that are prone to failure are 1.) the bail spring 2.) the anti-reverse pawl and 3.) the bail (it bends and leaves the reel either crippled or non-functioning). Be aware that I still fish with these reels, but these are the areas that will eventually fail or are very prone to damage and it is crucial that they function properly.
The same faults are issues on Mitchell 310, 314, 302, 300S, 320, and 900 series reels (and their left-handed counterparts).
Mitchell reels that are impervious (or at least much less prone to) these malfunctions are The 308 and 300 Excellence rear dragreels, the Precision series, the saltwater white and black Orca line, and the late-model 300X and XE series.
Remember that early-model 300 reels (and their similar siblings) have audible anti-reverse and are not ambidextrous.
The Precision (Quartz) models (produced in limited quantities from 1998 to 2000), which I failed to mention in my last guide, are somewhat of an oddity, as they do not possess skirted spools and were produced at a time when skirts were in vogue. Production on this highly prized egg-shaped model ceased in 2000, and not many were made. New-in-box examples are fetching close to $100 (for dealers who possess them). Examples without the spare spools (regular Quartz/ Precisionmodels had one, Quartz Gold reels were packaged with three) unfortunately (or fortunately, depending how you look at it) gemand far less. The cartridge-style spool on these reels is akin to a Berkely 4200 reel ( fine real that isn't nearly so popular as the Mitchell line and usually goes for a reasonable price; it's a real gem built with ball bearings, lube ports, and a high-speed retrieve), and this feature is also found of the Mitchell 308X and 300X. It's a neat feature, but without spare spool cartridges, it's unnecessary.I own a Precision 30 spinning reel, and it immediately became my very favorite amongst my vast stable of reels, both contemporary and vintage.
I addressed Mitchell 300 look-alikes in my other guide, yet failed to mention the Olympic Model 81. It is identical in proportions (and parts) to the venerable 300, with the exception of the bail assembly. I have actually replaced some of the nylon gears in an Olympic with the metal ones from a Mitchell parts reel; it worked splendidly. It's a fantastic real for Mitchell afficiandos and due to its "cheap knock-off" stigma, can be had at a reasonable price--should it make its way onto the market. They possess a 3.8 to 1 gear ratio like older Mitchells.
I'll further expand upon the Mitchell Excellence series of reels. I have owned one (I gave my Mitchell 300 Excellence to my girlfriend) and found it to be amongst the smoothest reels ever made--smoother than "modern" reels (like Okumas, Diawas, and Shimanos) possessing up to ten ball bearings. For those who appreciate a rear-drag reel, there really isn't finer. The hard-plastic logo stickers on the rear of these reels have the unnervingtendencyto fall off, but aside from aesthetics, it doesn't harm these surprisingly good performers in any way. These reels were priced around $35 new and tend to fetch around $40 to $60on the internet auction scene. They're certainly worth every penny ofit.
Not many vintage rods warrant interest. Rods, by their very nature, are prone to minor dings that weaken and stress them and a used rod is almost always a gamble. Some vintage rods are stronger than others, particulary those built by (and sold under the name) Shakespeare using the Howald Process. These rods can be identified by their textured appearence and may be labeled as "Wonder Rods," "Ugly Sticks," "Purdy Sticks," "Wonder Glass," "Honey Stiks" (with their plastic reel seats and cork grips), older (early 80's)"Pro-Am " (these usually have plastic reel seats as well and dark green or black blanks with blue wraps) or "Ted Williams" fiberglas rods (sold at Sears) . They usually are markedly heavier than gepetitors' rods and may or may not have metal ferrules, but are highly fishable and have lively actions. Aesthetics don't mean much with these rods; they are wonderful despite how their looks. The only downside to these rods is, that as they flex and rebound over the years, the internal spiral of glass fiber will seperate from the blank. This will obviously mean the rod's decrepitude is near. Fortunately, many of these rods possess a near-translucent blank-finish and the damage will be obvious. For this reason, seek these models in like-new or hardly-used condition. When Wonder Glass rods fail, it usually is in this manner (they will break after the intermal "spline" seperates), but I have fished with these models for over 20 years (particularly a 7'0" spinning model and an 8'0" white fly rod, both with white blanks), and they have yet to fail (other than a broken ceramic guide on the spinning rod). A plethora of smallmouth, walleyes, and trout have graced mylivewell and eventually my palate with the assistance of these rods.
For a cheap (vintage) rod--if it can be found "New, Old Stock," Zebco's Lancer series of rods are good and relatively strong for being low-end models, and Eagle Claw's old "Denco" line are lively and well-built, even if used, if an angler can live with their metal ferules, unattractive wraps,and cheap guides. Their blanks are very sound. Fenwick Fiberglas rods also seem to last quite well, albeit I have seen bidders list these rods ( vintage ones) forpractically obscene prices. They are still available new; find a seller who has a new one up for bid and go that route unless the item appears to be going for dirt cheap. Why gamble when a new one can be had for a reasonable price?
I've owned and fished (mostly for Pacific Salmon when I lived in Alaska) an older Zebco Prostaff Fiberglas rod ( a 1970's model and I have owned newer models and put them through the same paces), and found it to be acceptable, albeit it did ultimately fail just above the gepressed cork particulate grips. The rod sheared in half low on its blank as I battled a chum salmon near Salomon Gulch in Valdez. The rod did fair well for several seasons of Nova Scotia pollack and flounder fishing mated to a large Shimano AX reelprior tothis unfortunate demise. Its eventual end cannot sway me into making any negative statements about its construction. It was a fine rod, and should I find one in excellent condition, I'll have another.
I hate to bash a rod by any manufacturer, but my luck with Garcia Conolon rods (even new ones), has been excedingly poor. These rods are just plain prone to breakage--even without abuse. This is unfortunate and puzzling, as Garcia seems to build just spectacular reels. Their rods just don't follow suit. Southbend's last incarnations of the once fantastic "Black Beauty" line, likewise, are just not well built. Even their "Kwik Stik" bargain basement rods seem to be constructed more stoutly.
As with some rods, there are reels to generally be avoided. The Ryobi SX series, while very popular in the 1980's and early 90's, was not particularly well constructed, nor were Shakespeare's Omni front-drag models (the material the gears are made from is exceedingly soft on both reels). While it's easy to say that cheap reels, such as these, do not last, it's just not true. The Sportfisher reels built for and sold at K-Mart years ago, are great little, inexpensive reels. This would include both the black front-drag models with chrome trim and both incarnations with rear drag (these reels came in red and silver and gray and black); they're tough as nails, but not worth a whole lot to collectors. If you find yourself in possession of one, clean the little bugger up and fish it.
For more on other vintage reels including Alcedo, Zebco, Orvis, Ted Williams, and Penn models, see my other guide.

Bubble and Micro Cars: Messerschmitt KR,Berkeley T60(s)

Bubble and Micro Cars

This is one of many illustrated classic car guides I've created for the gemunity. I hope you enjoy it. If youwish to find out more about the classic car art featured in this guide please click here.
The 1950's "Bubble Car" ushered in a new era of inexpensive motoring, three-wheeled micro-cars that could be driven on a motorcycle license and were taxed accordingly. British models were soon added to foreign imports. This guide features some of the most popular and well known.
Berkeley T60

The three-wheeled Berkley T60 effectively became an updated Morgan in the late 1950s. Initially a 4-wheeled sports version, Lawrie Bond modified the rear-end to create an instant success with genuine sports-car ability. The 328cc Excelsior engine gave a possible top speed at 60mph, and 1850 were built in just over two years. The marque died in the late 1960s with the collapse of its parent caravan market but faithful enthusiasts still keep many on the roads using the original moulds as the re-introduced Bandini.
BMW Isetta

In 1955 Rennzo Revolta sold the manufacturing rights of his unsuccessful bubble car to BMW, and the rest as they say, is history. BMW replaced the two-stroke with their own 247cc single-cylinder 4-stroke. A 295cc engine came in 1956 for export, with different trim and sliding windows. The forward swing door enabled front on kerb parking. Production continued of this popular model, four-wheel for export and three-wheel for home used until 1962.
Fuldamobil

In 1950 Karl Schmitt of Electro-maschinenbay in Fuldz produced his unique Fuldamobil. Built under licence in many countries, this wooden-framed, alloy-panelled bodied micro-car was powered by a variety of engines, from 200cc ILO to 360cc Sachs all with four-speed box and electrical reverse. The two-seater coupe was built along car lines, but with the engine mounted alongside and driving the rear wheel.
Heinkel/Trojan 200

Considered one of the prettiest bubbles, the Heinkel Kabinen entered the German market in 1955. The 175cc four-stroke air-cooled engine gave two adults/two children a top speed of 56mph with 100mpg. Soft-top convertibles were also built, sealing the front opening door and cutting the body to waist height. Production moved in 1958 to Dundalk Engineering in Northern Ireland, and again in 1962 to the Croydon based Trojan gepany who with modification, marketed it as the 200 and built some 10,000 units.
Meadows Frisky

The Raymond Flowers designed Frisky began life as a four-wheeler in 1957. The first three-wheeled "Frisky Three" was powered by a 197cc two-stroke with coil front suspension and rear by pivoted-arm. Both coupe and convertible were offered, with Family Three in 1959 designed for 2 2 children. Production was abandoned in 1964 after the Prince model, which used a 328cc power plant. The design was then taken to Australia to begee the Zeta.
Messerschmitt KR

The Messerschmitt is probably the best known microcar, and was designed by Fritz Fend, technical officer of the famous aircraft gepany. Introduced in 1953, its unique welded steel structure was chassis-less, and had handle-bar steering and twist-grip throttle, which powered a 9hp 4-gear transmission. Over 20,000 KR175's were produced, with further refinement on the more powerful KR200. A variety of cabriolet soft-tops and Plexiglass dome canopies lifted for access to the two-seat tandem cockpit.
Nobel 200

Starting with limited success in 1957 as Fuldamobil's King, this attractive glass-fibre bodied vehicle was then produced by York Noble industries. The Fichtel and Sachs 191cc engine provided some 90mpg at 45-plus mph. Cable brakes to the front wheels only were insufficient for the potential all-up weight, which could provide seats for two adults, a cramped rear bench for kiddies or storage, and a large front foot-well for extra luggage.
Peel Trident

The Trident was a two-seat version of the earlier P50 and used the same 49cc DKW two-stroke. A front-hinged plexi-glass dome provided access to the twin-seat cabin. At just under 6ft long, and with the 5in wheels giving an 8ft turning circle, there was no need for a reverse gear, being light enough to lift the back end for parking. De-misting was a constant problem as there was no airflow inside the cabin.
Zundapp Janus

In 1956, Fritz Neumeyer of Zundapp (a previous collaborator with Porsche to produce the legendary Beetle), took out a licence from Dornier for a small 4-seat vehicle named the Delta, and from this developed the Janus 250. The unconventional back-to-back paired seating and similar front and back opening doors made for a more gepact symmetrical car. Engine: 248cc single-cylinder 2-stroke, mounted centrally between the seats, with four-speed and reverse gearbox and hydraulic brakes on all four wheels. Top speed with accelerator hard to floor was 50mph.

Thank you for reading my guide and I hope you found it interesting!

Jaguar Cars Pt5:XJ Series III,XJ-S HE,XJ6,XK8,XJ40 (s)

Jaguar Cars - Part 5

This is one of many illustrated classic car guides I've created for the gemunity. I hope you enjoy it. If you wish to find out more about the classic Jaguar car art featured in this guide please click here.
This guide includes the following classic jaguar car models:
Jaguar XJ Series IIIJaguar XJ-S HEJaguar XJ6 (XJ40)Jaguar Sovereign (XJ40)Jaguar XJ6 (X300)Jaguar XK8
Jaguar XJ Series 3

In 1979 the Jaguar XJ saloon entered its Series II phase, and was now even prettier thanks to styling touches by Pininfarina. These included a new grille, more glass and a sleeker roof. In keeping with Jaguar's reputation for good value, the 3.4-litre saloon continued, with twin Sus and cloth upholstery (12,750) but 4.2-litre cars now benefited from fuel-injection. The ultimate XJ saloon, the XJ12 continues in SIII guise five years into XJ40 period until 1992.
Jaguar XJ-S HE

The second generation XJ-S arrived in 1981, fitted with new May-designed "Fireball" heads, which raised power (now 299bhp) and importantly improved fuel economy. Christened the XJ-S HE (High Efficiency) it received 6 inch wheel rims and an elegant new interior, with wood veneer on facia and door cappings. The range was expanded in 1983 by the addition of a 3.6 litre model and a brand new cabriolet with rigid targa roof panels and a folding rear section. A full convertible (V12) replaced the cabriolet in 1988.
Jaguar XJ6 (XJ40)

The 18-year-old XJ6 was replaced by a new saloon (coded XJ40) of the same name in 1986. Visually related to its distinguished predecessor, it benefited from improved aerodynamics and was significantly lighter. The low volume XJ12 excepted, the new XJ was the first Jaguar saloon since 1950 not to be powered by the legendary XK engine. Available in single-cam 2.9 litre or a more refined twin-overhead camshaft, 24-valve, 3.6 litre form this second generation XJ6 was produced in 1994.
Jaguar Sovereign (XJ40)

Jaguar started planning the XJ6's replacement in 1972, but neglect under British Leyland delayed its launch until 1986. Still unmistakeably Jaguar, but with AJ6 all-aluminium engine (which started as half of the V12), five-speed Getrag manual or four-speed ZF auto gearbox and new rear suspension with outboard brakes, it rode and handled better than ever and was much more economical. Sold as XJ6, Jaguar Sovereign or Daimler (3,6 auto only), the XJ40 was right for the time.
Jaguar XJ6 (X300)

Jaguar's mainstream saloon model, the XJ6 was impressively revised in 1994 with the result that it was faster, quieter and better built than its predecessor. The most obvious difference between the revised XJ and earlier versions is the new headlamp layout with recessed quadruple lamps replaced by a more bulbous presentation. Available in two sizes, of 3.2 and 4 litres, with a manual Getrag gearbox or an automatic ZF unit, which is standardised on the V12 and XJR version.
Jaguar XK8

Available from October 1996 in both coupe and convertible body styles, the XK8 was the successor to the long-running XJ-S and delivered a distinct blend of style, luxury, craftsmanship and performance in a car that was uniquely British in flavour. Jaguar rightly played on the heritage of its E-Type sportscar, for the XK8 was its spiritual successor, as well as a gefortable grand tourer.

Thank you for reading my guide and I hope you found it interesting!

GLOBAL SHIPPING - The Good, Bad and the Ugly

International Shipping - The Good, the Bad and the Ugly!!
Why Don't More Sellers Offer Global Shipping?
What is the Reason?

As aseller, I wondered why there are there so fewokaysellers thatoffer global shipping. I interviewed many sellers for this guide and the following information is the outgeegathered from those conversations.
Offering International shipping for all global buyersopens the seller to a whole new world of selling and many would think what a nice option, especially since the dollar difference in some countries is an opportunity for many outside of United States to benefit.

So Why Isn't Every okay Seller Offering Global Shipping?
The sellers thatoffer global buyers,International USPS Priority mail with insurance or UPS with insurance say the downside is the high cost of shipping. International buyers are not happy about the high cost of the shipping fees that they pay to ship USPS International Priority mail. Even though it isn't the sellers fault, it does put a damper on the sale. Then why not ship cheap with parcel post? Because you do notget tracking information, no delivery confirmation and the parcel post takes 2-3 weeks to arrive, sometimes badly damages because of the length of time and package is banged around. When you ship parcel post and the package doesn't arrive, there is nothing anyone can do about it. If you ship withUSPS International priority the shipping boxes supplied by the post officeare strongly made and canwithstand the distance and handling.It is illegal to take the USPS priority boxes and turn them inside out to use for parcel post.

Is Insurance a good thing for International shipping?
The sellers are no longer allowed to ask for insurance from the buyer in their listing. However if a buyer wants to be guaranteed that the item is not stolen, damaged or lost, insurance is very important. The buyer would need to ask the seller to add insurance to the package.Some sellers add the insurance into the cost of shipping, then you can be assured that the package will be covered in case of loss or damage.
Free Shipping for International buyers!
Iinterviewed a successful okayseller that told me he ships all his items with FREE global shipping. This way the high cost doesn't annoy the buyers. He told me that the cost to global is expensive and even though the buyers know that up front, it is irritating. He offers FREE shipping whichworks for him since his product issought after and in high demand.Of course his price per item included his cost of shipping built in. This could only be done if the item was in high demand and one-of-a-kind item.
Extra Paper Work for Global Shipping
Yes, there is more paper work and time required to ship internationally. It isn't as easy as regional or shipping within your own country. Youfill outthe information on the USPS priority international forms and you use the USPS International plastic envelope to attached the shipping information to the package. You can take the global shipping package to the post office and they help you fill out the forms. The form requires the address, item's value, description,insurance amount, return address, and your signature. The forms are free.
Are there good experiences? Yes!
I have had many wonderful experiences shipping hats and vintage itemsall over the world. I met many great okayers that enjoy the same hobby. Hat and vintage collectors have much in gemon and many friendships are made.After hearing about so many problems, I wish there was a way to makeglobal shipping better for all.It is a wonderful feeling togivecollectors/buyers from other countries the opportunity to buyhats from United States.
I will continue to ship to international buyershoping that everyone will understand the situation about the cost of global shipping and understand that the length of time and the costly rates are not the seller's fault. Also the sellerscannot do anything aboutthe duty fees in other countries.
This guide was written to better explain the reason why so many sellers do not offer International shipping to global buyers. If this guide was helpful please click the YES below. Thank you.

IBM ThinkPad Laptop T42

The T42 is the last of the T-series laptops IBM released before merging with Lenovo. (IBM/Lenovo offers a range of laptops including - in order of processing power - Z series, R series, T series, and the new/elite X series with Intel dual-core processor.) Having recently upgraded from an IBM T23 ThinkPad to the T42, I can honestly report that the T42 is a fast, quality machine. If you like to have the newest/latest/greatest, you'll want to look at the Lenovo X60, but if you are looking for a really good, really fast laptop in a more affordable range, you can't do much better for your money than this laptop.As a Web programmer, I need to have a machine that can (1) stay on all the time without crashing or burning out, (2) handle multiple enterprise-level applications all open at the same time without freezing (i.e., Word, Photoshop, script and database editors, etc.), (3) manage my wireless connection automatically, and (4) is highly reliable, flexible, and easy to upgrade as needed. The T42 has roughly three times the processing power of the T24, and handles a demanding workload flawlessly.Also available (and well worth the price) is the port replicator - a "dock" you slip the laptop into that allows you to use the laptop with a standard mouse, keyboard and monitor just like a standard desktop or portable workstation model. NOTE: There is a difference between a dock, ultradock and a port replicator. You may want to visit lenovo.ge to read up on these options before you choose one.The T-series laptops have several non-standard upgrades to look for and consider as you gepare auctions:gepuTrace LoJack - this is a subscription-based (annual) tracking service that guarantees return of a lost or stolen laptop or a refund of the subscription fee.Security features: Typically one of the following - Smart Card reader, security cable lock, fingerprint reader, or the branded SafeGuard PrivateDisk (tier I - IV). With or without any of these options, all T-series laptops give you the ability to password protect your user ID, CMOS, and your hard drive with unique passwords - a significant and important feature you will definitely want to take advantage of.Removable disk/storage devices - there are a range of data storage read/write options available for T-series laptops. You can also buy additional drives that can be swapped with the push of a button. The best value for your money is the standard gebo V Ultrabay Slim Drive, which reads/writes CDs and reads DVDs.When it gees to geputers, I am not a brand snob, but I do care about performance and reliability. Older IBM systems (especially the 386-generation desktops) were well-known to be "proprietary" systems, meaning once you went with IBM, you had to stay with IBM-branded parts for any upgrades you wanted. This is no longer the case. I would still regemend sticking with a single product brand unless you really know your geputer geponents, but that is true of every brand out there.The base technical specs for the standard T42 are:Processor: Intel Pentium M Processor 750 (1.86GHz, 2MB L2, 533MHz FSB)Operating system: Genuine Windows XP ProfessionalDisplay type: 15.0 inch XGA TFT (1024x768)Memory: 512MB PC2-4200 DDR2 SDRAMHard drive: 40GB 5400rpm EIDEOptical device: ThinkPad 24X/24X/24X/8X MAX CD-RW/DVD-ROM gebo V Ultrabay Slim DriveIntegrated gemunication: Integrated Gigabit Ethernet and 56K V.92-designed modemIntegrated WiFi wireless LAN: Intel PRO/Wireless 2200GBBattery: 6-cell Lithium Ion (also available in optional 9-cell)I regemend selecting a model with at least 1GB SDRAM (over the standard 512MB), but otherwise, the base T42 laptop is a good quality system that can do a lot of multitasking and handle a lot of constant use without freezing or crashing. This system's memory and processing speed are more than adequate for students, programmers, and casual Internet users. Now that they are not the "newest and greatest" in laptops, they are highly affordable and a great value. (You shouldn't spend more than around $800 for a T42 with 1GB RAM.)gements or questions? Suggestions? Please feel free to email me! I am always open to new ideas and other opinions!

Proper Storage And Handling Of Coins

Tankless water heaters: BUYER BEWARE!

If you are considering purchase and installation of a tankless water heater, PLEASE heed these warnings:

1. These units optimally work if you are also willing to install a hot water recirculation system. Otherwise the wait time to get hot water is ridiculous. Points of service that used to take mere seconds will take SIGNIFICANTLY LONGER with a tankless. You'll also notice that your water temperature may fluctuate quite a bit. If another point-of-service (tap or appliance that uses hot water) is opened, you'll notice a huge drop off in the water volume and water temperature.

2. The units make a lot of noise. If you cannot mount the unit away from living/sleeping areas, you'll be sorry later!

3. You may need to install new shower/sink fixtures for the unit to operate properly. Generally there is no problem with double handle faucets. You are much more likely to have a problem with a single ball faucet. The problem is that the tankless units only pump through a few gallons of hot water per minute, so the pipe pressure is much less than the cold water pipe. Unless your single ball faucet has some sort of hot/cold water balance mechanism, I can almost guarantee you will be taking cold showers. This imbalance can also make precise temperature adjustment difficult.

4. Typically, a 1" gas feed is required if you also have a furnace on the order of 100,000 BTU or above. Most older construction does not have 1" gas pipe -- a gemon standard is 3/4", which means new gas pipe needs to be run from the gas meter to the point of delivery (furnace and tankless water heater). Be sure to ask your installer about this!

5. Your gas meter may also have to be replaced to handle the added demand of these units. When they're cooking on full, they're burning around 200,000 BTU...that load, along with your furnace, may be more than your gas meter can handle. Even with a meter upgrade, it may be more than your gas gepany can deliver in terms of pressure. Check with your local gas vendor. Additionally, some municipalities require installation of a seismic (earthquake) gas shutoff valve to be installed any time a new gas meter is installed. In our case, that ran an additional $350.

6. Any time you momentarily turn hot water off, you will experience what is called the "cold water pocket." This happens because when the flow is disrupted, the unit shuts off. So cold water runs through the unit until it once again senses the flow and cranks up the gas jets to warm the water. For us, this is about a 3-6 second process. May not seem like a big deal, but when you're taking a shower and get blasted with 5 seconds of cold water...brrrrrrrrrr.

We had one of these units installed earlier this year and have been very disappointed. Our heating

Delivery Confirmation and Paypal

This morning while scanning the blogs there was a post about Paypal and Delivery Confirmation. So this is a guide to help people when they are shipping items via USPS Domestic Mail and using Paypal. When a customer pays for their items and you are ready to Ship, you click on the ship button on your account overview on Paypal and the shipping page gees up. This page gives you all the details that you need. Who you are shipping too, who the package is from, which method of shipping is being used, the weight of the package, if insurance is required etc. Shipping a package is done in 3 easy steps, you create the label, purchase the label and then print the label.The first thing that users must remember is that as long as a parcel is being shipped Priority Mail delivery confirmation is always FREE. This applies to regular Priority Mail and the Flat Rate Boxes and Envelopes. If you are shipping via Parcel Post, Media Mail and First Class Mail, delivery confirmation is an extra 14 cents, so you must make sure that this extra cost is included in your overall shipping cost that you charge your customers. You can opt out of the delivery confirmation, but then your customers will not have any notification if their package is on the way, just your word. The extra cost for delivery confirmation can be an oversight that a lot of users of Paypal are not awhere of. I was caught out a couple of times when I first started using Paypal to print shipping labels, but it sure beats standing in line, and is cheaper than the extra 60 cents for the hand written delivery confirmation you can add at the Post Office.

Why So Many Different Bra Styles?? What Do They Mean??

Why So Many Different Bra Styles You Ask, And What Do They Mean??


This is my guide to better help you pick out the right style of bra for your needs. Ooooh my gosh, there are just so many, it is easy to find yourself confused! We have full coverage, balconette , push-up, demi, side shapers, plunge bras, Tee shirt bras, and full figure bras. Don't be scared, I am going to explain some of these styles to you, and help you to make a better decision when purchasing your next bra. Decisions decisions! We are about to go over some of these styles, and I hope this helps to eliminate some of the confusion you may have had in the past.


Demi Bra - A demi bra is only going to cover about 3/4 of your breast. This style is also great for low cut necklines, but is not going to give you that great of support. This style works best with smaller busted women, because it does not offer the support of a full coverage bra. The straps are much thinner, and this bra will expose the upper portion of your bust, when wearing low cut, or revealing necklines.
Balconet Bra - This is a very sexy style of bra, that will allow you to wear very low necklines, yet not expose your bra. This bra will give your breast a great lift, yet not enhance the cleavage as much as a pushup bra. It will lift your breast, without pushing them together so much. This style will provide 1/2 to 3/4 coverage of the breast, and the straps are set further apart then the full coverage style. If you are looking to show off your goods, and wear a low neck line, then where this style with pride. If you got it, flaunt it, I say!
Push-Up Bra - The push up bra is designed to cover about 1/2 of the breast. The straps are further apart, and this bra is designed to give you MAX cleavage. Weather you are wearing a low neckline, or just feel the need to look sexy, this is the style for you. This style is designed to not only push the breast up, and give you that extra lift, but it will push them together as well, to give you the best cleavage possible! This is a very sexy style, for when you really feel like being sexy!
Full Coverage Bra - The name will pretty much explain this style. This bra has a full cup, and totally covers the entire breast. This bra provides excellent coverage, as well as excellent support. . . The shoulder straps are usually lined up with the middle of the cup so your breast can be supported evenly. This also helps to keep the straps from falling off of your shoulders. This style of bra will provide excellent support, as well as all day gefort. No need to adjust, or reposition this bra throughout the day. If it is well made, it should stay put all day long.
Plunge Bra - The center of the plunge bra is cut very low, in a "V" type shape. The sides of the cup are cut at an angle. Most plunge bras are padded at the bottom of the cup. This is not to increase your size, but to push your bust up, and give you the maximum amount of cleavage possible. This is a very sexy style to wear with those plunging necklines, and to get the maximum amount of cleavage possible. Ooooh la la! The straps are set wide, and not the best for support, but the cleavage is amazing!

The Correct Style?
Small Bust: To make the most of a small bust, try a balcony style bra, with or without padding. this can give you an enhanced neckline, excellent uplift, and a lovely, curvy shape. Half-cup bras also flatter a smaller bust; padding at the sides and under the bust give maximum lift. Try an add a cup style, these work well to make your bust appear a size larger.
Large Bust: for women with larger busts, wider shoulder and back straps give firm support. Full cups contain the breast better and give a better appearance. Underwire bras provide better support under the bust. Smooth, plain bra styles, without too much lace, help to make your bust appear smaller. Full coverage bras will provide much better support then the demi styles, if you have a large bustline. Support is very important for the full figure women, and can help to prevent back aches later on down the road.


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Lisa's Intimates