This guide further expands upon the topic I breeched in "Vintage Spinning Reels."
The Mitchell 300 and 308 spinning reels that are seemingly everywhere on okay are highly user-servicable reels that can offer a high level of functionality and fun fishing to the fisherman who is also a tinkerer.
It's a good thing that there are parts readily available for these reels, as areas that are prone to failure are 1.) the bail spring 2.) the anti-reverse pawl and 3.) the bail (it bends and leaves the reel either crippled or non-functioning). Be aware that I still fish with these reels, but these are the areas that will eventually fail or are very prone to damage and it is crucial that they function properly.
The same faults are issues on Mitchell 310, 314, 302, 300S, 320, and 900 series reels (and their left-handed counterparts).
Mitchell reels that are impervious (or at least much less prone to) these malfunctions are The 308 and 300 Excellence rear dragreels, the Precision series, the saltwater white and black Orca line, and the late-model 300X and XE series.
Remember that early-model 300 reels (and their similar siblings) have audible anti-reverse and are not ambidextrous.
The Precision (Quartz) models (produced in limited quantities from 1998 to 2000), which I failed to mention in my last guide, are somewhat of an oddity, as they do not possess skirted spools and were produced at a time when skirts were in vogue. Production on this highly prized egg-shaped model ceased in 2000, and not many were made. New-in-box examples are fetching close to $100 (for dealers who possess them). Examples without the spare spools (regular Quartz/ Precisionmodels had one, Quartz Gold reels were packaged with three) unfortunately (or fortunately, depending how you look at it) gemand far less. The cartridge-style spool on these reels is akin to a Berkely 4200 reel ( fine real that isn't nearly so popular as the Mitchell line and usually goes for a reasonable price; it's a real gem built with ball bearings, lube ports, and a high-speed retrieve), and this feature is also found of the Mitchell 308X and 300X. It's a neat feature, but without spare spool cartridges, it's unnecessary.I own a Precision 30 spinning reel, and it immediately became my very favorite amongst my vast stable of reels, both contemporary and vintage.
I addressed Mitchell 300 look-alikes in my other guide, yet failed to mention the Olympic Model 81. It is identical in proportions (and parts) to the venerable 300, with the exception of the bail assembly. I have actually replaced some of the nylon gears in an Olympic with the metal ones from a Mitchell parts reel; it worked splendidly. It's a fantastic real for Mitchell afficiandos and due to its "cheap knock-off" stigma, can be had at a reasonable price--should it make its way onto the market. They possess a 3.8 to 1 gear ratio like older Mitchells.
I'll further expand upon the Mitchell Excellence series of reels. I have owned one (I gave my Mitchell 300 Excellence to my girlfriend) and found it to be amongst the smoothest reels ever made--smoother than "modern" reels (like Okumas, Diawas, and Shimanos) possessing up to ten ball bearings. For those who appreciate a rear-drag reel, there really isn't finer. The hard-plastic logo stickers on the rear of these reels have the unnervingtendencyto fall off, but aside from aesthetics, it doesn't harm these surprisingly good performers in any way. These reels were priced around $35 new and tend to fetch around $40 to $60on the internet auction scene. They're certainly worth every penny ofit.
Not many vintage rods warrant interest. Rods, by their very nature, are prone to minor dings that weaken and stress them and a used rod is almost always a gamble. Some vintage rods are stronger than others, particulary those built by (and sold under the name) Shakespeare using the Howald Process. These rods can be identified by their textured appearence and may be labeled as "Wonder Rods," "Ugly Sticks," "Purdy Sticks," "Wonder Glass," "Honey Stiks" (with their plastic reel seats and cork grips), older (early 80's)"Pro-Am " (these usually have plastic reel seats as well and dark green or black blanks with blue wraps) or "Ted Williams" fiberglas rods (sold at Sears) . They usually are markedly heavier than gepetitors' rods and may or may not have metal ferrules, but are highly fishable and have lively actions. Aesthetics don't mean much with these rods; they are wonderful despite how their looks. The only downside to these rods is, that as they flex and rebound over the years, the internal spiral of glass fiber will seperate from the blank. This will obviously mean the rod's decrepitude is near. Fortunately, many of these rods possess a near-translucent blank-finish and the damage will be obvious. For this reason, seek these models in like-new or hardly-used condition. When Wonder Glass rods fail, it usually is in this manner (they will break after the intermal "spline" seperates), but I have fished with these models for over 20 years (particularly a 7'0" spinning model and an 8'0" white fly rod, both with white blanks), and they have yet to fail (other than a broken ceramic guide on the spinning rod). A plethora of smallmouth, walleyes, and trout have graced mylivewell and eventually my palate with the assistance of these rods.
For a cheap (vintage) rod--if it can be found "New, Old Stock," Zebco's Lancer series of rods are good and relatively strong for being low-end models, and Eagle Claw's old "Denco" line are lively and well-built, even if used, if an angler can live with their metal ferules, unattractive wraps,and cheap guides. Their blanks are very sound. Fenwick Fiberglas rods also seem to last quite well, albeit I have seen bidders list these rods ( vintage ones) forpractically obscene prices. They are still available new; find a seller who has a new one up for bid and go that route unless the item appears to be going for dirt cheap. Why gamble when a new one can be had for a reasonable price?
I've owned and fished (mostly for Pacific Salmon when I lived in Alaska) an older Zebco Prostaff Fiberglas rod ( a 1970's model and I have owned newer models and put them through the same paces), and found it to be acceptable, albeit it did ultimately fail just above the gepressed cork particulate grips. The rod sheared in half low on its blank as I battled a chum salmon near Salomon Gulch in Valdez. The rod did fair well for several seasons of Nova Scotia pollack and flounder fishing mated to a large Shimano AX reelprior tothis unfortunate demise. Its eventual end cannot sway me into making any negative statements about its construction. It was a fine rod, and should I find one in excellent condition, I'll have another.
I hate to bash a rod by any manufacturer, but my luck with Garcia Conolon rods (even new ones), has been excedingly poor. These rods are just plain prone to breakage--even without abuse. This is unfortunate and puzzling, as Garcia seems to build just spectacular reels. Their rods just don't follow suit. Southbend's last incarnations of the once fantastic "Black Beauty" line, likewise, are just not well built. Even their "Kwik Stik" bargain basement rods seem to be constructed more stoutly.
As with some rods, there are reels to generally be avoided. The Ryobi SX series, while very popular in the 1980's and early 90's, was not particularly well constructed, nor were Shakespeare's Omni front-drag models (the material the gears are made from is exceedingly soft on both reels). While it's easy to say that cheap reels, such as these, do not last, it's just not true. The Sportfisher reels built for and sold at K-Mart years ago, are great little, inexpensive reels. This would include both the black front-drag models with chrome trim and both incarnations with rear drag (these reels came in red and silver and gray and black); they're tough as nails, but not worth a whole lot to collectors. If you find yourself in possession of one, clean the little bugger up and fish it.
For more on other vintage reels including Alcedo, Zebco, Orvis, Ted Williams, and Penn models, see my other guide.
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